Everything in Stefan Zwicky’s life has a story, and he likes to tell stories. He first ate the apero pastry La Gougere, for which he now weighs the flour, in France. It was with Alfred Habluetzel, the leading figure among creative Swiss furniture makers: ‘His son typed up the typical Burgundy recipe especially for me. In French, he couldn’t imagine it any other way.’ That this was some time ago is evident from the worn sheet of paper on the kitchen table.
Zwicky now attentively stirs the choux pastry in the frying pan, checking the consistency before stirring in one egg after the other. He places the finished dough in small heaps on the tray, pushes it into the oven, looks briefly at the clock and says: ‘We’ll smell it when the gougeres are done baking.’ Recipe: preheat the oven to 220 degrees, butter a baking sheet and dust it with flour.
Bring the water, butter and salt to the boil, then stir in the flour in the roasting pan.
Stir on a low fire until a smooth dough. It should not be too wet, so that the eggs can be dosed better.
Add the first egg and incorporate it well into the dough. Incorporate each egg into the dough separately. The mixture depends on the size of the eggs: once the slightly sticky dough itself stands, fold in the grated cheese.
Spoon or pipe the mixture onto the baking tray and place in the oven.