Remove the skin and tendons from the venison fillet, rinse under cold water, dry and season with salt and pepper. Heat oil in a roasting pan, brown the meat in it, roast in the oven heated to about 200 degrees (gas mark 3) for about 30 minutes. Remove the meat and keep warm. Pour off roasting fat, melt butter. Steam drained cherries and walnuts briefly in it until soft. Deglaze with Madeira and cherry juice. Fold in crème fraîche, cook and season to taste with salt and freshly ground pepper.
Serve with leaf salad and croquettes.
Franz Betzel:
The venison is also called the “roast beef of the rich”, but its meat is generally hard, coarse and dry and therefore only edible as goulash when cooked. The meat of the hind is much softer, but only the calf is a real treat for the palate. However, it can rarely be preserved, and when it is, it is correspondingly expensive.
By the way, the so-called “deer butt” is very popular among hunters. These are the soft, tender sticks of young deer antlers, which are about hand-high around St. John’s Day. They are blanched, then boiled in water until soft, skinned, cut into slices and sautéed with truffles and lemon peel in a little butter. Finally, they are boiled with beef broth and served as a ragout. For non-hunters, however, it should be impossible to get this delicacy.